Lawn Tractor Transmission Type s Updated: January 2014 30-40 years ago gear drive transmissions were about the only transmission available for your tractor. They were built just like the transmissions in a Model A Ford or a 1953 Farmall tractor. Big, strong gears. Heavy axles and cast housings.
They didn’t break but they were hard to use. You had to stop the tractor to change gears and most of the time you had to wiggle the tractor to move the shifter from one gear to another. Because the transmissions were so heavy there was a lot of weight on the rear wheels and you could pull just about anything with them including moldboard plows. Because they were so heavily built they were also very heavy and would put grooves in your lawn if you mowed the same way more than once or twice. Over time we asked for lawn tractors that mowed faster, turned better and didn’t cause so much damage.
We no longer had the huge Victory Gardens that required plowing with the garden tractor and if we did we used rototillers instead. So the manufactures listened and changed from the heavy, cumbersome tractors to lightweight tractors that mowed well, mowed faster, turned easier and didn’t cause damage to our lawns.
Seven Types Of Transmissions: There are now seven types of transmission found in today’s lawn tractors and zero turns. They are gear, friction disk, automatic or CVT, hydrostatic, pump/motor, electric and hybrid. I’ll spend a few paragraphs going through each type so you have a better idea of the best type for you.
I am not going into the details of how each one works. Just Google the transmission type and you can read to your heart’s content. Gear Transmissions Twenty years ago the gear drive transmission was the most popular but today automatic hydrostatic and automatic CVT transmissions have replaced them in popularity. Often called Manual transmissions this type uses a series of gears to change the ground speed of your tractor.
These transmissions are not like the older styles though. They shift better, are much, much lighter and easier to use. They use and inline gear selector instead of the old H-pattern. The biggest downfall of this type of transmission is you have to stop the tractor to shift to a different speed (range). This makes them harder to use when you have a lot of garden beds and landscape features to go around. To drive the tractor you must push in on the clutch, shift the transmission to the gear you want to use, release the clutch, and hang on. This is a dependable transmission that will give you years of service.
Some manufactures have a shift-on-the-go transmission. This is sometimes listed as a manual transmission but it is actually a CVT. These transmissions are found on the least expensive lawn tractors and are usually listed as 6 or 7 speed. Friction Disk Transmissions This is actually the transmission of choice for snow blowers but there are a few mowers like the Snapper Rear Engine Rider that still use this trans. It is a good, dependable transmission when used properly. It uses a friction wheel and disk to change the forward speed of your rider. Don’t use this transmission to pull heavy loadsyou will tear up the friction wheel.
You can shift-on-the-go with some models but to get the longest life most brands suggest you push down on the clutch/brake pedal and then shift to the speed you want. Automatic or CVT John Deere originally used a CVT in conjunction with a manual transmission on the Model 110. Now days, CVT’s have now matured to the point where you find them in cars, snowmobiles, snow blowers and even heavy-duty farm tractors. There are very few parts that wear in these transmissions and the recently introduced Element V from General Transmissions for your yard tractor is now stronger and requires less worry than all the hydrostatic transmissions. CVT’s for lawn tractors essentially a belt and variable pulley system similar to the drive system in a snowmobile or mini-bike.
I predict that CVT transmissions will replace most of the hydrostatic transmissions within the next 5 years. MTD is using this on many of it’s least expensive lawn tractors. Using one is very much like driving your car.
Put the lever on the fender in F and then press the right foot pedal. The farther you push the pedal the faster you go. To go in reverse put the fender lever in R and press on the right foot pedal. This trans is designed to mow lawns and is not designed to pull heavy loads. The Element V from General Transmissions is another CVT that you will now find in Yard Tractors.
This transmission is tougher, lighter weight and takes less power than the very popular Tuff Torq K46 and Hydro-Gear T2 hydrostatic transmissions. In fact the RS 800 Element V transmission is power rated very close to the most popular garden tractor transmission, the Hydro-Gear G730. These transmissions are very easy to use. Either a fender mounted lever or foot control varies the speed and direction just like the hydro transmission you are used to. These transmissions do not need maintenance and I expect them to last the life of the mower. To see how tough these new transmissions really are check out spot 1:27 in the next video! There is one other form of CVT that has the possibility of also replacing the hydrostatic transmisson.
Fallbrook has announced a commercial partnership with Hydro-Gear to bring NuVinci technology to the lawn & garden market. Instead of a variable pulley system uses a variable disk or ball/disk system. This is the transmission of the future because it uses fewer moving parts than a gear trans, can pull heavier loads than an automatic and uses less oil than a hydrostatic. At this point in time though they are not yet cost effective for lawn tractor applications.
Hydrostatic The most common transmission for lawn tractors today is an internal pump and motor drive system called the hydrostatic transmission. There are two types of these transmissions used in Lawn & Garden equipment, hydrostatic enclosed single and hydrostatic enclosed dual. Everything is enclosed in an aluminum housing.
Hydrostatic transmissions are more expensive than mechanical transmissions but they are much easier to use. Hydrostatic – Enclosed Single Most lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors and estate tractors in the last 20 years have an aluminum housing and inside that housing is the pump, motor, differential and drive axle.
These transmissions are sized to the mower application so a lawn tractor trans is designed for mowing and light hauling. A garden tractor transmission is heavier duty and can be used not only for mowing but ground engaging tasks like pulling a The residential models you find on today’s lawn tractors are sealed units and are not serviceable by you. Most of the transmissions have to removed from the tractor for any repairs. As an owner the only maintenance you have to do is periodically clean the outside of the case with a leaf blower or garden hose. They are designed to give you hundreds of hours of service for normal use. The garden tractor and estate tractor hydrostatic transmissions are heavier and built to handle heavy loads and ground engaging attachments.
Most of the hydrostatic transmissions in lawn tractors do not have posi-traction or differential lock. These transmissions are very easy to use. Either a fender mounted lever or foot control varies the speed and direction. The pedal on the left side of the tractor is the parking brake. You do not need to depress that pedal to shift the tractor. The forward and reverse is controlled by either a lever on the right fender or two pedals on the right side floorboard.
To go forward push the fender lever forward or press on the large pedal on the floor board. To stop the tractor pull the lever back to the middle position or lift your foot off the pedal. To back the tractor up pull the fender lever to the rear or press the small pedal on the floorboard. On the fender mounted control you HAVE to move the lever to the middle to stop your tractor. It will not go to neutral by itself like the foot controls. Hydrostatic – Enclosed Dual Two hydrostatic transmissions are mounted side-by-side in the residential zero turns.
Each trans controls a separate rear wheel. That is the primary reason why zero-turn mowers cost more than the lawn tractors. Again these trans are designed for the application and most are not designed to pull loads, just mow and bag. If you want to pull a leaf vacumn or move dirt in your yard cart this is not the transmission for you. Most of these transmissions are controlled by individual levers called lap bars that sit in front of you. This type of transmission takes practice to keep the tires from digging into your lawn but with a little practice these are very easy to use.
A large lever on each side of the seat controls that side transmission. To go forward push on BOTH levers. To stop, pull them back. (The easiest way to explain how to drive a two-lever zero turn mower is to use a shopping cart as an example. With the mower turned off sit on the seat and put your hands on the two large levers in front of you. Close you eyes and pretend you are gripping a shopping cart. What do you do to move a shopping cart forward?
Right, you push on the handle. Right, you pull back on the handle. Correct, you PUSH the handle in the direction you want to turn the cart. Two lever zero turns work the same way. Instead of one bar like a shopping cart, the bar is split in two and you move each side to make it move.) Hydrostatic – Pump & Motor The more expensive commercial zero-turn mowers, stand-ons, and some golf course mowers use a separate variable displacement pump near the gas engine connected to the wheel motors with hydraulic hose or metal lines. These are usually cast iron for long life and durability.
A few of the high-end commercial mowers are now using enclosed cast iron hydros. Electric HyBrid Electric/Gas The All Electric Electric drive systems are found in the mowers like the. I bought an Ariens IKON XL 52 after 2 Toro SS zero turns quit running because they kept throwing the drive belts in less than 2 hours of use. Now, with my Ariens at 3.4 hours, I don’t know what that part is called on the left hydro motor, but it lost the tension spring. Also noticed that the lever with teeth that I am assuming is part of the braking system is bent outwards. I’m tired of returning these things as this will be mower number 4 I return to Home Depot and will NOT buy mowers from them again. But I want to replace these parts, but don’t know what they are or what they do.
Ariens warranty states to contact Home Depot for the parts and HD has no clue on what to do. Hi, I am looking for recommendations as to a garden or utility tractor for some recently purchased property.
I will soon have 2 acre property with very gentle rolling hills. This property will need to be mowed (either drop cutting or mulching). I also would like to either pull 60 gallon sprayer or utilize 3 point version of same sprayer. I also would like to purchase 3 point tiller and snow blower as well. By doing this I can get rid of my existing snow blower, tiller, etc Any recommendations as to what type of unit would best suit my needs?
Hi chris, It appears you would like a compact utility tractor. I don’t review and test them but I will tell you the local dealer is just about as important as the actual brand of tractor.
I recommend a smaller dealer That sell Kioti, Mahindra or Massey Ferguson over the big corporate dealerships, like John Deere that have 20 or 30 other stores. With the local dealer you get faster service, usually better deals and a lot of expertise. By the way Mahindra is the largest utility tractor manufacture in the world.
Take some time to research them and Massey Ferguson. I am looking for a rider mower to handle a less than 1/2 acre lot, flat terrain, very few trees shrubs. Because the lack of my garage space I have been looking at rear engine mowers with smaller foot prints.
There doesn’t seem to be many mowers to choose in this category. I like the Cub Cadet CC30H, but the reliability rating is low according to CR. Have been warned that the use of plastic-nylon gears in their hydrostatic transmissions can be problematic. Do all hydrostatic transmissions use these type gears? Of these brands, Cub Cadet, Troybilt, and Snapper. Which would you recommend?
Hi Bud, No, there are very few small mowers left. Yes, all hydrostatic and CVT transmissions today have some poly or resin parts in them. But, the information you have gotten is old or doesn’t apply to the CC30H. That little Cub Cadet actually uses a transmission from a much larger tractor so in this case – it’s over built. Consumer Reports does list the Cub Cadet brand as more prone to problems but first that is based on just readers writing in and second the info is two years out of date.
In other words over the last 3 years Cub Cadet has completely gone through their product line and their operations. I have been hearing of almost no instances of problems now. I like Cub Cadet because there are many local dealers and it’s easy to get parts and help if you need it. The Troy-Bilt is the exact same mower as the Cub Cadet but they don’t have as large of a dealer network. Snapper has a great reputation but the price is insane. I tried to find out the difference between the 20HP through 25HP Kohler 7000 series (KT715-KT740) engines and have been unable to identify a difference except for the carb.
They have the same bore and stroke, valves and I think the cam is the same as well. Is the only difference really just the carburetor? It make sense that it uses the same components to save money in manufacturing. I have a Cub LT46 XT1 which has 22HP and I can’t imagine needing to put the larger carburetor on it for more power. The last time I let my lawn get out of control (an area with 1ft+ tall grass) I was still able to mow at top speed without bogging down, so it would just consume more gas by putting the larger carb on and running at the same RPM to maintain same speed. I’m just wondering because if someone needs a replacement engine, they could buy whatever version of the engine block they can find the cheapest (possibly used) and use the old carb from their blown engine if that’s the only difference. I recently purchased my first piece of property so now I’ve been researching lawn tractors until everything is becoming a blurred mess in my head.
An experts opinion will definitely help narrow down the search field with so many options out there. I’ve got about 5 acres of primarily flat land with only a little bit of slope on either side of the driveway. I’ll be doing mostly just mowing and snow plowing. Been keeping my searches around the 48″+ sized decks and preferably under $2500. I’ve got a little bit of leeway on the price range if the quality and reliability warrant it. I’ve seen a few listed with a type of locking rear differential. I’m certainly interested in such an option for plowing snow in the winter.
After installing a limited slip in my Jeep I can attest to the traction benefits. I’ve gotten some good info off of this site already, will appreciate any more you can provide to help out.
Scott Missoula, MT. Hi Scott, The electronic limited slip on the Cub Cadet and Husqvarna has good points and bad points. The biggest issue is it pushes the tractor in a straight line. You can’t turn the tractor with the diff locked. I have two that are great choices. Both of these are heavier than the under $2500 bunch and will last considerably longer.
This tractor goes faster than the ones with the diff lock. The extra speed will make a big dofference moving snow. It also has the largest wheels, heaviest trans and you can get a good dozer/snow blade for it.
Both of these tractors are good machines and worth the extra $150-200 you need to spend. Hi Jason, That tractor does not use the RS800 CVT. That tractor is made for Craftsman by MTD.
MTD has their own CVT. No one ever talks about that trans because no one ever has any problems with it. Now, the trans is great for what you are going to use the tractor for.
Mowing, hills and light pulling. Another thing that most people miss about the is it has a cast iron front axle.
It is the only Craftsman Lawn Tractor that has the cast iron axle. If you ever want to use it to push snow it will hold up. One last thing. That tractor is on clearance and there are very few left.
(Everyone wanted Craftsman to sell a lawn tractor with a Kohler but no one wanted to pay the extra price). I’ve been reading the comments that are posted on this site & I’m blown away! Very good info but I do have a question. On the 2015 & the 2016 models of the Craftsman Pro Series model # 20442, 46 “, 24hp Kohler engine, what # is the current transmission on this model # 20442? Correct me if I’m wrong, you stated that this model had a K46 TUFF TORQ tanny & a K58 TUFF TORQ tanny. Did the 2015 models have a K46 tanny & the 2016 models have a K58 tanny?
I’m confused, what # of transmission is on the current model # 20442? Which is better? Also do you have any info about the KOHLER 7000 ELITE SERIES 24hp engine? I’ve been told that this engine is very good & I’ve been told by a mechanic who works for a KUBOTA dealer & he says that this engine is ” junk ”!
I believe that most KUBOTA’s comes with a KOHLER engine, correct me if I’m wrong. If the engines were junk, why would KUBOTA have them in the first place? Please advise asap & thanks for everything! The 20442 has the K46 transmission. That is the right transmission for that mower.
The 20443 and 20445 have the stronger K58 transmission. With the larger 50 and 54 inch decks they need the stronger trans. Your Kubota mechanic is behind the times. The old Kohler Courage V-Twins had a habit of blowing head gaskets and valve cover gaskets. That is the engine that he had to work on. The old Kohler Courage is the engine that he is complaining about.
I’m wondering if they ever let him out of the back to he can see the new stuff 🙂 The new Kohler 7000 series don’t have any issues. In fact I have not heard of any problems with one. He hasn’t either so I don’t know why he would try to tell you otherwise.
The only reason why he would tell you the engines are junk would be so that dealer could sell you a more expensive tractor with the Kubota diesel. The Kohler 7000 is a residential engine. It will last you a long time. The Kohler 7000 Elite has a larger oil and air filter than the Kohler that comes standard in the Kubota tractors. I have a 2007 Husqvarna 2346xls. Transmission is K46LD.
I used it to mow and to pull an overloaded yard cart up hills for years, but that finally caught up with me. Also push a 40″ Berco snowblower in the winter. Now it is fine on flats but even for mowing it seems after the transmission warms up after 10 minutes or so, I can’t go up the slightest incline – no power. The engine, Briggs Vanguard, runs great and has been maintained well. Would you recommend a new transmission $800 or rebuild kit $300, or am I going to kill it by doing the same type of pulling/ pushing and I should just put my money into another tractor? Marc 3 acres, hilly, Nashua NH.
Hi Ryan, I don’t know. The tractors were made by two different companies (the Toro was made by MTD?) so the transmissions may be too different. I suggest pulling the tranny out of the Sabre. It comes out the bottom and you can find a video on youtube to show you how.
Take pictures (with your cellphone) as you take it out of the linkages. Then crawl under the Toro and check it out. The 5 speed is another option.
They all basically mount in the same spot but the linkages for the shifter and brake are usually what needs to be modified. The current X300 series John Deere’s cost considerably more than the Husqvarna, Cub Cadet and Craftsman Garden tractors. The use the same engines and transmissions yet the John Deere dealers charge $1000 to $3000 more. For that extra money I would really expect them to last 2 to 3 times longer than the other brands.
So, at this point in time the current models are not lasting 2-3 times longer. The K66 is bulletproof and is as reliable as the G730 – plus it has the electronic differential lock so it is my number one choice for you. The G730 is also bulletproof – it’s faster than the other two trans at 7.5 MPH. The K58 in the Deere is the same transmission that Cub Cadet and Craftsman Pro are also using in tractors costing $1000 less than the Deere. The rest of the industry is running away from Kawasaki as fast as they can.
John Deere is the only brand still sticking with them. I don’t exactly know why but I do know the Kohler 7000 and the Briggs & Stratton Husqvarna is using have great reputations. For the same price or less as the 2015 X310 you can get a You can save even more money and still have a great garden tractor with the and.
Greetings from Winchester, VA. For many years I have mowed my 3 acre yard with an old 1970s Bolens QS16.
This is a very stout lawn tractor, though my recently purchased zero turn is much quicker and cuts more cleanly. I hope to get the Bolens working again, however, for hauling purposes in my yard. I have rebuilt or replaced every system and nearly every component in the tractor, including the now obsolete Sustrand hydro 3 times. The hydro is now slipping again, and I hesitate to spend another $800 for repairing it when the repairs only last about 5 years (the last time only 2 years). I have only found one place in the US that repairs the old Sunstrands. With the rest of the tractor in excellent condition, including a Kohler K341 engine with only 200 hours, do I have any options to retrofit an entirely different transmission?
I am open to any possibilities – it doesn’t have to be a hydro. I realize I would need to fit any kind of unit to my current engine output shaft and my transaxle.
Thanks in advance. Hi I have about 1 + acre of rough unfinished yard. I want something that will be ground engaging rated and will push some dirt and blow snow.
Snapper Serial Number Year Winchester Va
I do not care for the decks that are cut away on top for a discharge chute. I have determined that I need to buy a unit with a fabricated deck to get the square cut / flat faced discharge chute no need to say why but it is a safety issue. I know I need a garden tractor and have looked at the Craftsman Pro series, Cub Cadets, Husqvarna GT series etc. What seems to be the best value for what I need is the Troy-bilt Super Bronco 54 XP GT garden tractor. The price is right. The specs look good.
It is supposed to have a locking Diff. What do you think. Dave, I am not aware that any of the MTD built garden tractors have the electronic locking diff. They offered it on a couple of Cub Cadet lawn tractors last year with a K46 but have dropped it for 2016.
They use the K58 trans in the Troy-Bilt GT’s and I am not aware that it is even available with ELD. As far as I know there is only the K46ELD lawn tractor trans and the K66ELD garden tractor trans.
If you want a fabricated deck and locking diff it will have to be the Husqvarna GT52XLSi or GT54LS. They have the K66ELD. I am looking at getting the 2015 Cub Cadet XT2 GX54. The main selling points are the K58 TT transmission and size of the deck. I have also been looking at Husqvarna’s website to try to compare models, but Husqvarna doesn’t list any specs on the transmissions. Do you have any idea what they are using? And, if any of them have a heavier duty transmission (comparable or better than the K58)?
Other direction I may look is the 2014 Cub Cadets because I my 42″ snowblower would still fit on those models (not sure which ones specifically, but it’s the 42″ MTD snowblower that has been around for the last 10-15 years). Do you know which 2014 Cub’s have heavier duty transmissions? The Cub dealer didn’t have any brochures or specs left on the ’14 models. I mow 2 acres with steep hills and use ground engaging equipment. Therefore, I want a heavier duty transmission to ensure the entire machine holds up. Expecting to get at least 15 years out of a brand new machine. I have been blowing snow with my current lower as well, and plan to continue.
I may think about getting a tiller attachment, but don’t think I can cost-justify the prices. Any other recommendations for other brands/models in the same price range as the XT2 GX54 (or cheaper!) would be great. I also saw on one of your replies, something about Hydro-Gears being so great.
Do you prefer them over the Tuff Torqs? What models of each are comparable to each other?
Minneapolis, MN Thank you! Update: I am pretty set on the Cub Cadet XT2 GX54. Are there any that are of better value that I should consider? The most significant thing I have against this mower is that my local dealer said that Cub has a “promise” date of June 19th for a ship date (they will ship it by then) and shipping takes 7-10 days, which puts me at the end of June.
I saw a website last night: mowersdirect.com last night that has free shipping and would ship it immediately. I’m not sure about the reliability of the website. Over the XT1 GT50: Additional 4″ and fabricated deck and ball bearing front wheels. Not entirely sure that these upgrades are worth $600 though. I guess it also has armrests, which aren’t cheap, but not necessary either.
Over the Husqvarna GT52XLS (equal price): It is only available in the same Kohler engine as the XT2. I think I would prefer the TT K58 transmission over the HG G7.
I haven’t been able to find much information on the HG transmission and therefore think the TT K58 is more proven. Also, as all mowers get some bad reviews, Husqvarna has had more than their fair share of complaints. I am pretty sure Cub Cadet has a better warranty program. Lastly, Husqvarna’s website and dealer locator have been extremely frustrating. They do not list the transmission specs for the mowers (only that it is hydrostatic, and you were able to give me that information).
They do not differentiate chainsaw dealers from lawn mower dealers. It took a couple visits and many phone calls to find a Husqvarna lawn mower dealer and it is not in a reasonable proximity to my home. Cub Cadet dealers seems to becoming fewer and further between, but there are at least five that are closer than the Husqvarna dealer I found. Overall, I feel that the XT2 might be a little pricey, but I haven’t been able to find anything of better value. Thanks again for the awesome site! Would you say that all machines sold today as “Garden Tractors” with hydrostats would have sufficiently-beefy units for hills, 300-600lb towing, ground-engage etc (Obviously, I wouldn’t hold you to it)? If you were potentially looking to buy a garden tractor sometime within the next five years (of 2015), what type of transmission would you most favor/wait for (besides manual)?
I ask because for my next garden tractor, I want to make sure I don’t end up with a fragile transmission. Many people seem to have high-hopes for CVT transmissions. Also, if you have any general opinions on Craftsman vs. Cub Cadet vs. John Deere, I’d love to hear them. — Background, in case you’re curious: I manage between eight and 16 acres of residential terrain (mostly my parents’), much of which is quite hilly.
For mowing, I have a Hustler Super-Z which, aside from the Kawasaki motor–an absolutely unreliable POS pardon my candidness since year two, has been a phenomenal zero-turn. It’s commercial-grade, and I recall reading it has some of the strongest hydro motors you can buy; so I have no concern for that mower (other than the Kawasaki–I’ve never cursed at one object so muchsorry, can’t express how much I hate that mill). For grass collection, spraying/spreading, and general hauling/towing duties, I pull out my late-’90s Craftsman 917-273061 garden tractor which dependably oversaw all jobs up until I got the Hustler five years ago. Despite its I-don’t-even-know-how-many-hundreds-of-hours of neglect (including running on e10 for half of its life not under my supervision), the Kohler starts right up and runs healthily (more dependable than the much, much newer Kawasaki) and the HydroGear 222-3010 has been phenomenally reliable despite negligent use (ie towing uphill at full speed, dethatching at 1/2 engine speed, wheelies lol–again, not under my supervision). It wasn’t until I inherited the Craftsman that I started reading up on hydrostats and learned that people generally don’t favor them for anything but casual mowing. Really makes me appreciate how great that Craftsman has been to us; unfortunately, it also now has me worried about using it as we have all these yearshence, my questions above 🙂 Lastly, I’ve noted that you’re a very helpful person to people who have questions. On behalf of all of the lurkers who don’t post questions/comments: thank you for your dedication to helping/informing others.
It has been tremendously helpful to me and undoubtedly many thousands of others. Hi Guy, You are very welcome, You have to get into the X500 Deere’s to get a “garden tractor” trans. The 2015 Cub Cadet’s and Craftsman Pro’s use a K58 Tuff Torq. They say it is heavy enough for ground engaging work. The Red Craftsman, Poulan Pro and some Husqvarna GT’s use the G730 Hydro-Gear. It’s pretty much bullet-proof.
Some of the Higher end Husqvarna’s use the K66. It’s also tough enough for anything you’ll ever pull with it. Simplicity uses all three. You have to get up to the Regent to get the GT transmissions. CVT’s currently are only in the lawn tractors.
They are tough but General Transmissions does not have one for Garden Tractors yet. Hi Joe, Well your tractor has gone well over 10 years so it may be time for a new one. Generally, You tractor is worth about $400 in great shape. It will cost between $400 and $800 to replace the trans. Is your steering wore also? You can get a Craftsman Model 25081 for around $1450 and is the direct replacement to your old Craftsman.
Craftsman has made many improvements including better steering, more legroom room, better seat, better engines and the the new CVT trans. The 25081 is a lot easier to get on and off. Use this link to check it out on Sears.com: Go here to read my review: Are you sure it’s the transmission? If you haven’t checked the engine to transmission belt please do that before you give up on the tractor.
Trans replacements are usually around $800 if you have someone buy new parts and do the work. If you find the transmission yourself off of ebay or someplace similar and do the work yourself you can usually get the project done for half that. The trans is a Hydro-Gear 314-0510. If you like to work on them and you want to take the time you can sometimes get a really good deal on a tractor with a bad engine. Then take the two and make one. For example over a 12 month period I picked up a 2004 Craftsman with a bad motor for $20 and then later on picked up a “dead” 2001 and a 2002 for free. The 2001 looked bad but come to find out the only thing wrong with it was a bad battery and bad fuel.
I took the engine out of the 2001 and put it in the 2004 and ended up with a good running tractor that we used around the yard here until I found the Husqvarna Riders. The rest of the parts tractors went to two handy guys who couldn’t afford new and they used them to keep their own Craftsman’s running. I’m looking at purchasing a new cub cadet 18 hp or higher but have seen a lot of mixed reviews about them and purchasing them from Home Depot. I have a very hilly and uneven 4 acres and haul things around with a trailer too. Can you clear up my concerns and do you know if the 2015 models have improvements that may help assist me?
I’m looking at spending no more then 1699 and really don’t want to spend the money and find out I have invested in junk. Any opinion appreciated since I have spent hours among hours researching and basically can’t find any reliable consistent information that is helping me make up my mind.
I have been using a 17.5 hp crafts man that’s about 13 years old and it gets stuck on the hills and has been abused and in wearing out. It now only starts when it wants to and the grass is only getting taller!!!! Help Thank you Laurie.
Hi Laurie, I have bad news and good news for you. The bad news is: Four acres is a lot of lawn to mow and I really can’t think of any tractor under $1699 that will be dependable and do the job for you. The good news is Cub Cadet does have two tractors that will work for you and are rugged enough to last a long time on your property. You need a lawn tractor with the heavy duty transmission. The two I will show you have the Tuff Torq K58. That transmission can handle hills and uneven ground well.
The transmission in all the other Cub Cadets is a K46. It is a good transmission but has a reputation of not holding up on hills. It is strong enough for your normal suburban lawn but not strong enough for hilly properties. The first model is the XT1 GT50″. You can get this tractor at Home Depot or you local Cub Cadet Dealer. It has larger wheels to give you a better ride and the heavy transmission.
The 50 inch deck will get you mowing done in a couple of hours. You can see it here: The second tractor is a dealer only model. It has two additional features over the GT50. Traction control and fabricated deck.
If you have had problems going up your hills in the past the XT2 GX54″ with Fabricated Deck has a feature where both rear wheels will get traction to pull you up the hills. (traction control) This feature is found on very few lawn tractors and really makes mowing a safer experience. The fabricated deck is stronger than conventional decks and takes a beating well. If you have problems with the deck on your last lawn tractor this deck will be a lot better. You can see the XT2 GX54″ with Fabricated Deck at your local Cub Cadet dealer and you can read about it more here:. Laurie, The biggest problem with lawn tractors and hills is the transmissions.
The majority of the tractors are designed for you normal, suburban lawn. The Cub Cadet tractors I showed you will do the job and last but they are twice the money you have budgeted.
So I am going to suggest you look at one other lawn tractor. It is closer to your budget. It has a transmission strong enough for your hills and a deck that will hold up well.
(It’s also a good driving tractor) This tractor has been around for two years and has proven to be a great lawn tractor. Please read these articles and reviews. Feel free to ask any other questions you may have. This is the one I was leaning towards. Has the traction control but still the k46 transmission. Is the k46 transmission really that much different? I have been using a 17.5 hp 2002 craftsman for 13 years and its main problem with the hills has been losing traction?
I want to get what will work the best and if need be will save a little longer for the better transmission of needed but if the one above will work I’d rather get it. So confusing. How important would traction control compared to the transmission be in your opinion? I may give up the traction control if it is to save some money.
As for craftsman I need the better seat that only cub offers and have not been happy with Sears lately.thanks again. I am considering the Craftsman 20386 manual transmission yard tractor to replace my Craftsman 917.271831 which I’ve had for about 15 years. Engine still works but it won’t move, and other things are starting to go so it’s time to replace. I can’t find any reviews and am hesitant to buy a model that I don’t know anything about other than what the manufacturer says. I have about 4 acres, flat, not too many obstacles. I know I want a 42″ deck, 22 HP, 2 cylinder B&S engine, preferably Craftsman. I do some very light hauling (branches).
I don’t want to mow with my foot on the pedal, sounds tiring and I’ve read complaints about that very thing. Basically I want what I had-but I don’t want to end up with a clunker.
I know these manual transmission models are being phased out. I’ve also looked into the 25081. Not a manual but I believe that it has a cruise control feature. But there are some negative reviews that are scaring me on the 25081. I have to watch what I spend (no more than $2,000). I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks so much.
Lynn Marlton, NJ. Hi Lynn, I do not recommend a manual transmission. There is no clutch in these tractors. When you press on the left foot pedal you only release the v-belt between the engine and the transmission. When you release the pedal the belt tightens.
The tractor usually jumps or jerks. If you are in a higher gear like 4, 5 or 6 the front wheels may jump off the ground. But you know that already – that’s the same way your old mower worked. The rest of the mower is a nice step up from you old tractor. It’s only about 4 inches longer but has a lot more room to get on and off.
It steers easier and the steering doesn’t get all that play your old one got. The new Briggs Platinum is smoother than your old 21 HP “boxer.” For you I feel this may be exactly the mower you are looking for. If you have spare blades or a bagger it will still fit on this tractor. You’ve done your research but the 25081 does not have any reviews up yet on Sears.com. You may have been looking at the 20381. About half of the negative reviews there are not for that tractor. The biggest issue people were having – the trans has been replaced this year with a more dependable unit (that’s why the model number change).
@Wayne, The Pro uses the K46 Tuff Torq hydrostatic. My view point on the K46.
It’s the most popular transmission installed in lawn tractors. John Deere uses it on all of the D140, D150, D160, D170, X300 and X304.
Cub Cadet is using it on all of the 2015 Enduro series and Troy-Bilt lawn tractors. Craftsman uses it in the 20401 tractor and the new 2015 Pro series. It holds up well for lawn mowing and normal yard duties like pulling a yard cart, sweeper, snow blade, etc. If your yard is all hills or you regularly pull 500 lb loads uphill then it does have a history of needing repair around 300-400 hours.
For most people that’s 8 to 10 years of use. I have one here in an old Yard Man that’s almost 20 years old. It’s working even though the tractor has fallen apart. Also take into consideration – You can find people who have problems with anything – particularly if you read the tractor forums. You can find people who have had problems with the K46 in the heavier D160, D170 Deere’s and the LGT Husqvarna tractors.
But also remember there are about 1,000,000 million of these transmissions sold EACH year. All the complaints you read don’t add up to a “recall” problem with the trans. The GT Element V has an edge for working hills.
It will take more abuse. But I also have people who don’t like the high foot control and the slow reverse in the Element V. So I recommend the K46 if you mow lawn and do light yard work.
If you burnt up the transmission in your last two yard tractors then the CVT is a better choice.
Welcome to GTT. That's a real good looking 10 you've got there.
Nice and straight, and real good looking tin. That would be a great candidate for a restoration. Of course, you could just keep it looking great like it is, and put her to work, without worrying about dirtying it. Either way, I'm sure you'll enjoy it. Those 10s are a nice ride. Of all my MFs, the 10 is my favorite ride.
If you have any questions, just ask. We'll do our best to help. Oh, please say thanks to your dad for looking after it as well as he did.